Island Peak Climbing

Accomodation
Tea Houses / Local lodge
Best Season
Sept - Dec & Mar - May
Maximum Altitude
6,189 m
Meals
Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner
Transportation
Domestic flight pick and drop
Walking Hours
5-6 hrs
Difficulty
Medium
Start Point
Kathmandu
End Pont
Kathmandu
No. of days
16

Peak Climbing at Island is popularly known as Imja Tse. This high altitude climbing adventure is famous among climbers around the world and is in a way amongst the most rewarding climbing expeditions in Nepal besides the Mera peak climbing, Lobuche peak climbing, Paldor peak climbing, Chulu west peak climbing and Ama Dablam expedition.. The legendary 6189-meter peak is located in the Khumbu Himalayas, which offers spectacular views of the entire area and gives the climber and other participants opportunities for cultural immersion and adventure. The ascent is very suitable for both the trained climber as well as those aspiring to hone their skills in mountain climbing. Alliance Treks accompanies climbing activities like in Pikey Peak trek while looking after climbers’ safety and satisfaction.

The purpose of this guide is to inform you about Island Peak climbing, the essential aspects such as climbing experiences, preparations, total costs, and route descriptions for the ascent, along with all you need to know. Now let us get down to everything important for a climbing jaunt.

Overview

Itinerary

Cost

FAQs

Overview

Itinerary

Cost

FAQs

Island Peak Climbing Overview

this is the picture of Island Peak Climbing

Island Peak Climbing also known as Imja Tse is among the most prominent adventure trips available in Nepal besides the trek to Everest Base Camp, combining Himalayan glory with technicality. Almost 6,189 meters high, this peak provides climbers with an adventurous experience of mountaineering over heights. Such knowledge makes sure that the journey is safe and memorable for people whether they are seasoned climbers or beginners with high ambition, specifically about the Island Peak climbing difficulty, cost, and itinerary. Below will be the complete breakdown of all things you need to know, including the reasons why partnering with Alliance Treks take your experience at such a climb.

Why Choose Island Peak Climbing?

Island Peak climbing Nepal attracts many adventurers because it offers a combination of being accessible yet challenging. Located in the Everest region, the summit offers Mount Everest view from Island Peak accompanied by sweeping views of Lhotse and Makalu. Also, its PD+/AD- climbing grade makes it good for people who are stepping up from trekking to mountaineering. However, beware of the Island Peak ice wall climbing section, which is a mere 40 m vertical wall with crampons and ropes.

Island Peak Climbing Difficulty: What to Expect

Know the Island peak climbing difficulty to prepare yourself adequately. This peak is tagged the easiest climbing peak in Nepal. However, high elevation and technical sections require respect. Crevasses await climbers, as well as steep snow slopes and the classic ice wall. Acclimatization for Island Peak is important for almost every itinerary that requires rest days at Chhukung or Dingboche. Finally, Island peak climbing training should emphasize endurance, skills with ropes, and an ability to cope with challenging climatic conditions.

Crafting Your Island Peak Climbing Itinerary

The Island Peak climbing itinerary usually stretches for around 16 to 20 days, with the starting point being a flight to Lukla. The rest of the itinerary runs along the Everest Base Camp trail towards Dingboche, then diverts towards Chhukung to Island Peak base camp. In conjunction with these climbs, routes designed by Alliance Treks incorporate the Island Peak climbing with trek to Everest Base Camp route for greater acclimatization and scenery. Summit day would start around 1 AM to cover the glacier and ice wall before the sun rises.

Breaking Down the Island Peak Climbing Cost

If you are planning to go climbing on Island Peak from Kathmandu, it can cost from $2,500 up to $4,500 depending on the number of people in the group and the services offered. Budget Island Peak climbing options do exist, though it would never compromise on safety and permits. The Island Peak climbing permits and fees entails $350, gear rentals, guiding, and logistics. Alliance Treks has formulated Island Peak climbing packages in a clear manner, which is free of any hidden costs.

Essential Gear and Training

Packing the right tools for Mount Island Peak climbing gear list is a must. Some of the essentials include mountaineering boots, crampons, ice axes, and harnesses. Trainings should focus on cardiovascular fitness and strength-building. Island Peak climbing without prior experience or knowledge is possible, but guides are recommended for novices. Alliance Treks offers pre-climb workshops to sharpen skills. For more information, please refer to our list of climbing mountain equipment.

Best Time for Island Peak Climbing

The best time for Island Peak climbing are found at a certain point in spring (April to May) and autumn (October to November). Otherwise, stable weather provides some guarantee against the Island Peak climbing weather risks, although sudden storms are still possible. Similarly, Island Peak climbing in October is the best month for climbing because the terrain is totally uncovered, and the skies are clear. Do not try to climb during the monsoon season and winter, as these periods bring more dangers from avalanches and snow.

Permits and Logistics

According to the rules set forth for obtaining an Island Peak climbing permit, one needs to go through the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) permit and Sagarmatha National Park entry. The fees amount to approximately $500 for each climber. To alleviate climbers from this tedious work so that they can focus on preparation, Alliance Treks looks after these arrangements. Keep in mind that there are differences in permit requirements for Island Peak climbing solo vs guided climbs, and independent climbers have some additional documentation to obtain.

Safety and Success Rates

The Island Peak climbing success rate for guided ranges from around 85% to 90%. With native acclimatization for Island Peak, experienced guides, and weather preparedness, chances significantly improve. But Island Peak climbing fatalities do happen, mostly from altitude sickness or falls. Mitigation of risks involves selecting well-reputed operators like Alliance Treks, which advocates small groups where expert leadership is given.

Comparing Peaks: Island Peak vs Mera Peak vs Lobuche

The Island Peak vs Mera Peak climbing debate? Mera Peak is at a height of 6,476 meters with few technical requirements, thus suitable for beginners. On the contrary, Lobuche Peak, which is at 6,119 meters, has its share of steep parts. For Everest lovers, combining the Island Peak climb vs Everest Base Camp makes for some variety, mixing trekking and climbing into a single adventure. Everest region is also famous for the Everest Base Camp Heli trek, Everest Base Camp trek with Gokyo Ri, Pikey Peak trek, Ama Dablam Base Camp trek and Gokyo lake trek. For further information about the Everest, refer to our Everest Base Camp trek blog page.

Why Partner with Alliance Treks?

A unique feature of Alliance Treks is the custom-made Island Peak climbing packages and experienced Sherpa guides. We have 18 day packages, including Island Peak summit view sunrise attempts, gear check lists, and cultural interaction. With a glowing Island Peak climbing reviews, they guarantee safety, affordability, and very memorable moments. If you are looking for a trek in Sikkim, then Alliance treks have Sikkim Goechala trek for you.

Frequently Asked Questions

How hard is Island Peak climbing?

The Island Peak climbing grade (PD+/AD-) means moderate technical sections. Fitness and basic rope skills are essential.

Can beginners climb Island Peak?

Yes, with guided support. Alliance Treks offers training for Island Peak climbing without prior experience.

Do I need a guide for Island Peak climbing?

Legally, no. However, guides enhance safety and success.

How long does it take to climb Island Peak?

Summit day takes 10 to 14 hours from base camp.

Can I climb Island Peak after Everest Base Camp?

Absolutely! Many Island Peak climbing with Everest Base Camp packages combine both.

Final Thoughts

Island Peak climbing is a life-transforming adventure in the Himalayan ranges of Nepal. Recognizing the different aspects of the cost, difficulty, and gear needed will give you confidence in your approach to the climb. Working with Alliance Treks provides expert insight: from permits to actually summiting the famous Island Peak ice wall. Ready to put a crown jewel on the Everest region? Start planning your expedition for 2025 now!

Day 1 :

Early morning flight to Lukla (2,840m/6,3154ft) and trek to Phakding (2,610m/8,560ft), 3 hours walking

Early morning flight to Lukla, a quick 45-minute journey. Meet your porter(s), collect your luggage, and then begin the scenic 3-hour trek to Phakding.

Note: In peak seasons (Spring and Autumn), a 5-6 hour van drive to Ramechap at 1:00 AM precedes the 17-minute flight to Lukla.

Lunch, Dinner and over night at Lodge.

Day 2 :

Trek to Namche Bazar (3,440m/11,283ft), 5 to 6 hours walking

Savor breakfast at the lodge before embarking on the trek along Dudh Koshi River. Traverse the renowned Double Suspension Bridge and ascend, greeted by panoramic mountain views, reaching Namche Bazaar. It is the largest Sherpa settlement in Nepal.

Sherpas, also known for their climbing prowess, are essential for successful ascents above 8000 meters. Enjoy free time to explore the town at your leisure.

Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner and then over night at Lodge included.

Day 3 :

Acclimation day or Excursion to Everest View Hotel & Khamjung to see Yeti Skull

Enjoy a day for acclimatization. Enhance the process with a recommended day excursion to Syangboche, situated at 3780 meters. It offers breathtaking panoramic views of Tawache, Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, and Thamserku mountains.

Visit the famous "Everest View Hotel," also the world's highest hotel. Optionally explore Khamjung Monastery, housing the "Yeti Skull." Return to Namche for an overnight stay.

Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner & then over night at Lodge included.

Day 4 :

Trek Tengboche (3867m) – 5 hours walking

Today's trek leads to Tengboche, offering superb views of Ama Dablam and the Everest skyline. Explore the largest Buddhist monastery in the Everest region. This region is also famous for the Everest base camp trek.

"Tengboche Monastery," also famous for the annual Mani Rimdu festival celebrated by Sherpa communities. Witness evening rituals at the monastery.

Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner & then over night at Lodge included.

Day 5 :

Trek to Dingboche (4,410m/14,464ft), 5 hours walking

Start your day with breakfast at the lodge. Your guide will set a designated time for the 5-hour trek to Dingboche. It sits on the Glacier line of Imja and Duwo Glacier in Chukhung valley. Traverse Sherpa settlements like Deboche, Pangboche & Shomare. Check in at your lodge.
Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner & then over night at Lodge included.

Day 6 :

Acclimatization Day

Today is an acclimatization day to adjust to the altitude gained. Opt for an excursion to nearby places with your trek guide for enhanced acclimatization. If not interested and in need of rest, you can relax at your lodge.
Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner & then over night at Lodge included.

Day 7 :

Trek Lobuche (4940m) – 5 hours walking

Embark on your trek today, tracing Mani walls adorned with Buddhist prayer stone carvings. Ascend to Dhugla, Proceed, passing the moraine of the Khumbu Glacier, Scott Fischer and Babu Chairi Sherpa memorials. A final push for 2 hours brings us to Lobuche.
Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner & then over night at Lodge included.

Day 8 :

Trek Gorekshep (5170m) with visit to Everest Base Camp (5364m) – 7 hours walking

Today's trek is challenging due to low oxygen levels. Start early to avoid rush. Follow your guide via Gorakshep Tso, with rocky dunes, glacier moraine, and streams. Reach Everest Base Camp, observing colorful tents of expedition groups preparing for the summit.

Enjoy views of Nuptse, Khumbuste, and Pumori. Return to Gorakshep for an overnight stay, the last temporary settlement in the Everest area.

Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner & then over night at Lodge included.

Day 9 :

Kalapathar Sunrise Excursion and trek to Dingobhce ((4,410m/14,464ft), 5 hours walking),8 hours walking

Early morning, ascend to the best viewpoint on earth for a breathtaking sunrise over Mt. Everest, Nuptse, Cho-oye, and Lhotse. Witness the color transformation of lofty peaks from white to orange with the first rays of sunlight.

Capture the view of Everest Base Camp from Kalapathar. After savoring the accomplishment, return to Gorekshep for breakfast. Rest and then begin your trek down to Dingboche, following the same route.

Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner & then over night at Lodge included.

Day 10 :

Trek to Island Peak Base Camp (5,100m/16,728ft) via Chhukung Villag (4,750m15,580ft), 7 to 8 hours walking.

Today, take breakfast at the same lodge then trek to Chhukung village where you meet your climbing guide, check your equipment or rent which you have to. Rest a bit then trek continues to Island Peak Base camp passing through surrounding landscape, glacier.
Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner & then over night in tent.

Day 11 :

Trek to Island Peak High Camp (5,600m/18,368ft)

After a 4 to 5-hour trek, spend the night in tents. Physically fit individuals can opt to summit the peak. Today's trek takes you to High Camp in 3 to 4 hours for acclimatization, providing high-altitude food. Water is available through snow melting or limited supply from the base camp. Decide with your guide whether to start climbing from the base camp for convenience, considering the limited facilities at High Camp.
Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner & then over night in tent.

Day 12 :

Island Peak high camp to Summit (6,189m/20,299ft) and trek to Chhukung(4,730m/15,514ft), 9 to 10 hours walking

Commence your climbing journey around 1:00 AM with your guide, equipped with warm drinking water, dry food, and climbing gear. Anticipate a 6 to 7-hour ascent to the top of Island Peak, contingent on your physical fitness and weather conditions. After summiting, descend to the Base Camp and continue the trek to Chhukung village.

Day 13 :

Trek to Pangboche(3,985m/13,070ft). 5 to 6 hours walking

Following breakfast at the same lodge, trek through Dingboche to Pangboche, a 6 to 7-hour walk.
Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner and over night at Lodge.

Day 14 :

Trek to Namche Bazaar (3,440m/11,283ft) 5-6 hours walking

Have breakfast at the same lodge, then trek through Phortse to Khumjung. Enjoy lunch, explore monuments like Khumjung Monastery and the Yeti's skull, then continue the trek to Namche Bazaar.
Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner & over night at Lodge.

Day 15 :

Trek to Lukla (2,860m/9,380ft). 7 to 8 hours walking

Today, trek mostly downhill, passing through various Sherpa villages with stunning river views of Dudhkoshi. Finally, reach Lukla.
Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner & over night at Lodge.

Day 16 :

Flight Lukla to Kathmandu (1,310m/4,296ft), 45 minutes flight or fly to Ramechhap, 17 minutes flight

Today, after breakfast, early morning flight to Kathmandu (45 minuntes) then drop to hotel by your trekkin guide or fly to Ramechhap (17 minutes flight) then drive back to Kathmandu by sharing coach, 5 to 6 hours driving.
Breakfast and over night at Hotel.

Isalnd Peak Climbing FAQ

Expand all

Is Island Peak difficult to climb?

Most climbers can reach Island Peak if they train technically and maintain excellent physical conditioning. Acclimatization plays a crucial role in success. Many climbers in their 50s and 60s have successfully summited with proper preparation.

How long does it take to climb Island Peak?

Climbing Island Peak takes at least 19 days, including time in Kathmandu, with 16 days dedicated to trekking and climbing. Extra days help accommodate possible flight delays in and out of the mountains.

What is the success rate of Island Peak?

Spending more time at high elevations improves the chances of successful acclimatization. Adding two extra nights in Dingboche at 4,350m (14,272 feet) significantly enhances acclimatization and increases success rates.

Which season is best for Island Peak?

Climbers can scale Island Peak throughout the year, but the best seasons are spring (March to early June) and autumn (September to November) due to stable weather conditions.

What is the deadliest peak to climb?

Annapurna I in Nepal ranks as the most dangerous mountain to climb. Standing at 8,091 meters (26,545 feet), it has only a 32% success rate, with 32 climbers dying for every 100 successful summits.

Can you climb Island Peak without a guide?

Climbers can ascend Island Peak without a formal guide by hiring yaks, porters, or carrying gear themselves. Many independent climbers attempt the climb, but the mountain remains busy, ensuring they are not alone.

What grade is Island Peak?

Island Peak carries a PD or 2B alpine grading, indicating some technical climbing sections and exposed glacier crossings.

Which is harder, Mera Peak or Island Peak?

The trek to Mera Peak presents more challenges than Island Peak, with greater altitude gains and losses. Mera Peak’s remote location offers fewer tea houses and facilities, making it feel more like an expedition.

How do you prepare for Island Peak?

Proper preparation requires an itinerary with acclimatization at Island Peak High Camp, a targeted training plan, and familiarity with Himalayan-style fixed-line climbing techniques.

Can you see Everest from Island Peak?

Climbers enjoy stunning views of Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, and other towering peaks from Island Peak’s summit.

What to climb after Island Peak?

Climbers seeking higher-altitude challenges after Island Peak should consider Baruntse (7,129m) or Himlung Himal (7,126m).

Do you need oxygen for Island Peak?

Most climbers do not require supplemental oxygen for Island Peak. Proper acclimatization helps the body adjust to the altitude of 6,189 meters, reducing the risk of altitude sickness.

Is Island Peak for beginners?

Island Peak, also known as Imja Tse, serves as an excellent first Himalayan climb for beginner mountaineers. Standing at 6,189 meters, it provides breathtaking views and an introduction to mountaineering.

Where is base camp in Everest?

Everest Base Camp has two locations: South Base Camp in Nepal at 5,364m and North Base Camp in Tibet at 5,150m. Climbers use these camps for ascent and descent.

How many days does it take to climb Island Peak?

Depending on the chosen route, climbers take between 16 and 20 days to complete the Island Peak climb. Experienced mountaineers with high-altitude knowledge can finish in 14 days without an Everest Base Camp detour.

What do you need to climb Island Peak?

Climbers must be physically fit, energetic, and familiar with using ice axes and crampons. Basic rope skills, abseiling techniques, and ladder crossings are essential for safety.

What is the temperature at Island Peak in May?

Temperatures range from 0°C to 15°C during the trek in April, May, late September, and October. On summit night, temperatures drop to –5°C to –10°C, warming up after sunrise.

Is Annapurna harder than Everest?

Annapurna presents more difficulty than Everest due to its harsh terrain, unpredictable weather, and lack of local support. With a 29% fatality rate, it remains one of the most dangerous mountains to climb.

How many climbers have died on Annapurna?

According to The Himalayan Database, Annapurna has recorded 476 summits and 73 fatalities.

Can a beginner climb Mera Peak?

Mera Peak attracts both beginners and professionals. While professionals often choose Everest, Lhotse, or Ama Dablam, beginners can successfully climb Mera Peak with proper preparation and planning.

What is the difference between Lobuche East and Island Peak?

Lobuche East provides a panoramic view of Everest, while Island Peak offers close-up views of Lhotse South Face and Ama Dablam. Both peaks fall under the trekking peak category and hold an Alpine PD+ grade.

Is Island Peak easy to climb?

Most climbers can reach the summit if they possess technical training and strong physical conditioning.

Is Mera Peak easier than Island Peak?

Summiting Mera Peak requires less technical skill than Island Peak, but Mera’s exposure to higher winds and colder conditions makes the climb more challenging. Climbers should spend two nights at Mera Peak Base Camp (5,350m) before advancing to High Camp (5,800m).

Island Peak Climbing Info

Island Peak Climbing Overview

Why Choose Island Peak Climbing?

Island Peak Climbing Difficulty: What to Expect

Crafting Your Island Peak Climbing Itinerary

Breaking Down the Island Peak Climbing Cost

Essential Gear and Training

Best Time for Island Peak Climbing

Permits and Logistics

Safety and Success Rates

Comparing Peaks: Island Peak vs Mera Peak vs Lobuche

Why Partner with Alliance Treks?

Frequently Asked Questions

How hard is Island Peak climbing?

Can beginners climb Island Peak?

Do I need a guide for Island Peak climbing?

How long does it take to climb Island Peak?

Can I climb Island Peak after Everest Base Camp?

Final Thoughts

Island Peak Climbing Itinerary

Climbing Service

Cost Includes

Cost Excludes

Isalnd Peak Climbing FAQ

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